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Valparaiso is the big port about an hour from Stgo. As with most ports it can be a bit dodgy, although it's great for a day trip. The houses crawl up the hillside from the port below. To save walking up some pretty steep hills you can take one of the many ascensores. These are a kind of lift, most of which are like large plywood boxes on rails. I have a feeling some of them were last serviced in 1899, but as the 'journey' usually takes about 45 seconds you don't have time to worry about it. It's also the only time Chileans won't fight for a seat. I hear the Germans walk up because you can't book in advance.
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